Any day you ride the Vigezzina-Centovalli Railway is bound to be life-changing: In the span of only 32 miles, the train crosses 83 bridges and viaducts. Instead of a huge passenger vehicle designed to haul hundreds of guests, this train typically has three or four light-rail cars, so the journey feels more intimate. Travelers not only ride from one station to the next, but they actually cross a border between Switzerland and Italy.
Typical of train rides in the European Alps, you’ll probably spend the whole time staring out windows, unable to tear your eyes away from the succession of valleys, rivers, and mountaintop villages. Truly, the terrain between Locarno, Switzerland and Domodossola, Italy surpasses all expectations, rivaling the three Swiss train rides that Rick Steves says are the most scenic in Europe. You may fill entire SD cards with landscape photos.
Yet the route gets even better in fall, when the sloping forests dramatically change color. Peak season is something to behold along the Swiss-Italian border; unlike much of the Alps, these cities aren’t very elevated; Locarno stands only 633 feet above sea level, while Domodossola is just short of 1,000 feet. This means foliage generally changes later in the season than in higher reaches. Between October and November, the Vigezzina-Centovalli Railway invites passengers on “The Foliage Train,” a color-rich transect through local forests. Passengers can also stop on their way between these two historic towns, to take in the crisp air and snap pictures of the jagged highlands.
Read more: Popular European Gestures To Know Before Your Trip According To Rick Steves
The story of the Vigezzina-Centovalli Railway
A close-up of a train coming around the bend on the Vigezzina-Centovalli Railway – PHOTOGRAPHY IS ON/Shutterstock
The Vigezzina-Centovalli Railway is an unlikely feat of engineering and international diplomacy. For centuries, the only way to navigate these mountains was along narrow paths, either on foot or horse. When an electrified railway was first proposed in the early 20th century, it required the construction of scores of bridges to cross valleys and gorges; workers also had to blast through mountains to create 31 tunnels. This was slow and dangerous work, and the train line didn’t open until 1923.
Not long after, Alpine fighting in World War II threatened to destroy the valuable railway. A major storm in 1978 also caused significant damage to the tracks. The train has become a major symbol of peaceful cooperation between Switzerland and Italy; despite occasional tensions, the two nations have peacefully co-existed for over 400 years.
Miraculously, the train route has survived major mishaps over the past century, and is now a popular tourist attraction. The railway operates nine or 10 departures daily, year-round, and trains can carry 142 passengers each way. A direct drive between Locarno and Domodossola is similarly beautiful and takes about 75 minutes, but the road is narrow and twisting, and many drivers will find the SS337 highway stressful to negotiate by car. The Vigezzina-Centovalli Railway is designed for care-free passage, and you don’t even lose much time: the train usually passes between the two towns in under two hours. This is one of the reasons Steves says train travel in Europe might be better than driving.
Getting to the Vigezzina-Centovalli Railway
An old village perches on an autumn-colored hill near the Vigezzina-Centovalli Railway – Maurice Lesca/Shutterstock
Here’s the welcome surprise: Locarno is located on Lake Maggiore, one of Switzerland’s most beautiful bodies of water. Lake Maggiore bears a striking resemblance to iconic but crowded Lake Como, making it the best alternative, according to Steves. If you’ve spent time here and plan to enter Italy, you can buy a ticket for the Vigezzina-Centovalli Railway in downtown Locarno, just a couple blocks north of the lakefront Giochi al Burbaglio Park. Second class tickets for the Foliage Train costs around $42-48 for each adult, while first class costs about $53 to $60. Prices vary slightly between weekdays and weekends, and tickets for children cost a little less.
You can theoretically travel from Locarno to Domodossola and back in a single day, but many travelers will prefer to head in one direction, or to break the journey up into two days. Both towns are famous for their historic beauty and culinary scenes, and they’re each packed with hotels, nearly all costing $100 or more per night. Naturally, you’ll need your passport to cross the Swiss-Italian border; most travelers from Europe and North America should make it across without any trouble, though you should remember that Switzerland is not part of the European Union and some businesses will prefer Swiss francs to euros.
Both Locarno and Domodossola are about equidistant from Milan, where you’ll find the region’s largest international airport. In keeping with the railroad theme, you can take the RE4 train from Milan to Domodossola and the RE80 to Locarno; whether you rent a car and drive or make your way to the train station and ride, the trip to either town should take less than two hours each way.
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