When planning a trip to Japan in December, my husband and I — like just about every other traveler — gravitated toward Tokyo and Kyoto. Of course, both of those cities are pretty much a given for a first trip to Japan but then my nephew and his wife encouraged us to change our itinerary to add a couple of nights in Kinosaki Onsen in between. Onsens are natural hot springs and Kinosaki Onsen is renowned for having seven of them. They had just come back from their own trip and their photos of this spa town, where everyone walks around in robes and spends their days onsen hopping, immediately sold us.
They raved about Nishimuraya Honkan, an authentic ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn) that has been family-owned since it was founded in 1854. Yes, rooms still feature shoji sliding doors and tatami mats but, make no mistake, this Relais & Chateaux property is all about luxury. In fact, it’s the recipient of two Michelin Keys and, after three non-stop days in Tokyo, we were excited to just settle in and be pampered. We definitely chose the right place.
Our wonderful Nakai-san
Nakai-san at Nishimuraya Honkan take care of everything, including ensuring that your yukaba is tied properly.
(Michael Mark)
At Nishimuraya Honkan, each room is cared for by a personal attendant who acts as housekeeper/server/concierge. Our attendant was amazing. According to the Japan Ryokan & Hotel Association, this person is called Nakai-san; I looked it up because I want to make sure I show her the huge respect she deserves. I don’t want to embarass her so I won’t say her name but I hope the ryokan will honor her in some way for being such a perfect ambassador.
We looked forward to our conversations with her during dinners and she taught us a great deal about Japanese culture and history. We shared an inside joke the whole time we were there about the fact that my husband and I had accidentally put on each other’s yukatas at first. We were hysterical laughing about it and she was very discreet, reassuring us that it was fine although she definitely had a little twinkle in her eye. By the end of our stay, she felt like a friend.
In addition to making sure we didn’t make fools of ourselves in public, she also cleaned our room, made up our beds at night and served us our dinners — tasks made more difficult by the fact that everything took place on the floor.
Floored, literally
One of the traditional Japanese rooms at Nishimuraya Honkan.
(Nishimuraya Honkan)
I’ll admit we were a little wary when we realized we were going to be sleeping on the floor but, after our first night, we seriously considered getting rid of our bed at home. Our fold up mattresses were surprisingly plush and we were supplied with plenty of pillows and cuddly comforters. You can opt for a Western-style room with beds but we felt that defeated the purpose of our staying at a ryokan and we’re so glad we experienced it more authentically.
Dinner, a stunning two hour multi-course meal called kaiseki, is served in your room every night and also takes place on a beautifully-set table close to the ground. I could not sit on the floor cushion for that long and pulled over a regular chair instead, which took nothing away from the experience for me.
Because we were lucky to be there during crab season, which runs from November to March, we were treated to so many creative iterations of delicious snow crab from the Sea of Japan in addition to artfully presented seasonal dishes made from fresh fish, vegetables and world famous Tajima beef.
These leisurely dinners were so special and really gave us an opportunity to appreciate the good food we were eating and the care that had been taken every step of the way to bring it to us, from planting and growing it to carefully plating it on thoughtfully chosen dishware.
No wonder we slept so well.
Breakfast: East vs West
Breakfast at Nishimuraya Honkan is a treat for all the senses.
(Sam Joseph)
Every morning, we had the choice of a Japanese or Western style breakfast. Over our two mornings, we tried both because when in Rome … The amount, variety and quality of food was staggering in both versions. So much excellence.
We enjoyed eating breakfast in Senrei, a historic dining hall that we were fascinated to learn was built over 100 years ago to symbolize the restoration of Kinosaki Onsen after an earthquake destroyed most of the town. Thank goodness they were able to rebuild because it would have been a real loss to Japanese culture.
The onsen experience
One of the beautiful onsens at Nishimuraya Honkan.
(Nishimuraya Honkan)
If you’re thinking onsens are like hot tubs, think again. There’s a very strict and respectful etiquette required for using them and, rather than a party atmosphere, it’s meant to be a quiet time for relaxation and reflection. You go into the onsens, which are separated by gender, fully nude and you’re expected to clean yourself off first by sitting on one of the provided stools and use the soap and water bucket to wash. You’re also not supposed to let your towel (which is, really, a washcloth) touch the water, and regulars have perfected the art of holding it on their head while they’re soaking.
My husband really enjoyed both of Nishimuraya Honkan’s guest onsens but I waited until we had a private one to try it.
Because the guestrooms with private onsens had been all booked when we made our reservations, we decided to schedule an hour in the private onsen at Nishimuraya Honkan’s sister property, Nishimuraya Hotel Shogetsutei, one morning. This is super easy because the hotel driver brings you over there and picks you up afterwards.
We were given our own cabin with a comfy sitting area, a sauna and a private outdoor (covered!) onsen. It was pouring out, which made the experience even more magical. The hot, healing water combined with the sound of the rain and the gorgeous greenery all around us created such tranquility that we wished we had scheduled another session, as well.
The town of Kinosaki Onsen
Onsen hopping in your yukata is highly encouraged in the historical town of Kinosaki Onsen.
(Sam Joseph)
Staying at Nishimuraya Honkan gives you free access to all seven of the town’s hot springs, which is why it’s not uncommon to see people walking around in their yukatas and getas (wooden sandals) as they go from one to another. (Note: Tattoos, which are prohibited in many Japanese onsens, are allowed in all of Kinosaki Onsen’s bathhouses.)
The town itself is easily walkable and, oh, so pretty, with its lovely willow trees and picturesque bridge overlooking the river. Shops and restaurants line the streets, creating a romantic atmosphere and lots of photo opportunities.
As hard as this is to believe, we had probably the best burger of our lives in town at Kinosaki Burger. We went in with zero expectations and just wanted something other than the fish we’d been eating for every meal. We were shocked that it was SO good but, after reading more about Tajima beef, I guess we shouldn’t have been. This became, in its own way, another memorable and, yes, authentic Japan experience for us.
How to get to Nishimuraya Honkan
Each pair of traditional wooden geta displayed at the Kinosaki Onsen train station represents one of the town’s ryokan.
(Michael Mark)
Getting to Nishimuraya Honkan is an interesting journey in itself and we actually loved taking the trains. Japan has so much to teach other countries about how to run an efficient, easy to use train system.
From Tokyo, we took the JR Tokaido Shinkansen to Kyoto, where we then transferred to a JR limited express to Kinosaki Onsen. We bought our tickets online and reserved seats in the first class Green Car.
The whole trip took close to 6 hours and was an absolute pleasure. We stocked up on bento boxes and convenience store snacks to eat on the train and enjoyed the scenery, including a glimpse of Mt. Fuji, from our comfortable seats. When we arrived in Kinosaki Onsen, a shuttle picked us up and dropped us off at Nishimuraya Honkan.
To make our travels even easier, we had our Tokyo hotel send our luggage ahead to our Kyoto hotel so we each just had to carry a backpack for our two nights in Kinosaki Onsen, where everything from yukatas to tabi socks (which separate the big toe from the rest) and toiletries was provided.
When we left Kinosaki Onsen to continue our trip in Kyoto, we were already trying to figure out ways we could incorporate some of the beautiful rituals we had practiced at Nishimuraya Honkan into our everyday lives. Sipping a cup of tea as I write this piece in my robe is just one of them.