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South Korea\u2019s thriving, open-all-hours capital is also a place of major historical pedigree, having served as the heart of the Joseon dynasty for over half a millennium. Five royal palaces are laid out like precious heirlooms at its centre, together with ancient shrines and gates. A city wall once encircled them, but Seoul burst beyond these confines long ago to become one of the world\u2019s most populous urban centres, home to around 10 million people. It’s also the epicentre of the Korean Wave \u2014 also known as the K-culture Wave or Hallyu \u2014 the cultural export that\u2019s swept across the globe. So, whether you’re fascinated by its history or are keen to experience\u00a0its modern side, here\u2019s how to get the best out of this exciting city.<\/p>\n
Seoul is steeped in history, with five Joseon-era (1392\u20131910) palaces to explore. The most popular with visitors are 14th-century Gyeongbokgung Palace<\/a>, which is the largest and most colourfully painted, and 15th-century Changdeokgung Palace<\/a>, home to the splendidly secluded Secret Garden. Both palaces have tree-lined trails and beautiful reflective ponds. You\u2019ll see many palace visitors, both Korean and non-Korean, wearing hanbok<\/i>, South Korea\u2019s traditional two-piece clothing. Do the same, and you can visit all the palaces for free \u2014 there are plenty of rental spots around the city.<\/p>\n Other Joseon dynasty sights include the giant city gates of Sungnyemun and Dongdaemun, which stand proudly at what were once the edges of ancient Seoul. They look mighty by day, but they\u2019re perhaps even better when illuminated at night. Connecting the two gates are the city walls, which weave through parks and across mountains. If you\u2019re feeling energetic, you can walk around old Seoul section by section \u2014 or even try to complete the whole loop.<\/p>\n Just south of Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces, the neighbourhood of Insa-dong offers a real taste of Korean tradition, plus great examples of traditional wooden housing (known as \u2018hanok\u2019<\/i>\u00a0in Korean) along its myriad alleyways. You\u2019ll find many hanok<\/i> house restaurants serving delicious Korean food. Traditional tearooms outnumber cafes in Insa-dong \u2014 try an iced cup of refreshing, bright pink omija-cha<\/i> (five flavours tea) or some warming saenggang-cha<\/i> (ginger tea). Art galleries have popped up all over the neighbourhood, too, along with plenty of art supply shops.<\/p>\n